Frequently Asked Questions
Here are some of the questions we get asked most often
Here are some of the questions we get asked most often
It is best to spray and kill off your old turf or any weeds before you lay your new turf. You don’t want your old turf growing back up through. Mix up some RoundUp or Glyphosphate and Urea (if you can get it) together and spray your old lawn (avoid any other plants). Depending on the weather and your mix, your old turf should start to yellow off between 7-10 days. We recommend a 2nd spray if needed to make sure the plant has taken up all the chemical. You then can remove the old turf, either by hand, bobcat or if the area was very sparse by mixing it into the area to break down.
From recent studies done at UWA, research has shown that the yellow/loam base soils are the best at holding moisture and nutrient. Most soil yards now do a “Lawn Mix”, which consists of a loam and red soil, with chicken manure mixed together. If you are on the coastal strip, mixing some peat into the area as well will help with the alkalinity. Mix it through your existing soil, to approx 150mm + deep. DON’T leave it as a layer on top.
It depends on your levels, but if you can bring 20-25mm over the area and mix through, that is a good base to start on. Your finished level below the top of your paver, before you lay your new turf should be approx 30-40mm for the couch varieties, and 40-50mm for the buffalo varieties. This will allow your grass to sit below the top of your pavers and have room to thicken up.
Once you have prepped your new area and levelled off, we recommend you apply some starter fertiliser. Organic 2000 Turf Start, is an organic pelletised chicken manure. This is perfect to throw over the top of your area, ready for your new turf. You can do this at the same time you lay your new turf.
Pelletised organic chicken manure to go underneath newly laid turf 25kg (160m2)-$22, 12kg (80m2)-$16, 7kg (50m2)-$13.50
A sharp serrated knife is the easiest to cut the turf along the edges and around your sprinklers. You can also you hedge clippers, secateurs, or a small saw.
There is no need to compact the area before laying, unless you have brought in 400mm of new soil, as a compacted area inhibits root development. Water the surface until it is firm, so that when you walk you leave a light imprint in the soil. If you sink down, then you can lightly run the compactor over the top. Once your lawn has been laid, then a light compact over the top is recommended. This will level out any discrepancies in the turf making sure that the roots are in contact with the soil, minimising scalping when you come to do your first mow.
Current water restrictions are in place all year around. The Water Corporation provide water exemptions when you are laying your new lawn depending on the season. See the charts below for a watering guide
Mowing your new lawn can commence once the turf has begun to establish. In summer within 10 days - 2 weeks, whilst in the cooler months in can take over 3 weeks. However it is important not to let it get too long, as it may stress the grass if you remove too much in one cut. A general rule is to never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf when you mow.
Fertilising is important throughout the whole year. Once you have laid your lawn on organic fertiliser, you can use this again if you have any left after 2-3 weeks. Once established it is best to use a chemical slow release fertiliser. Our Premium Slow Release should be used lightly every 8-10weeks throughout the year.
However, during the cooler months, it is more advisable to foliar feed the lawn with a liquid fertiliser such as FEX. The plant will take this through its leaf structure very quickly feeding and greening the plant.
Sir Walter Premium Blend Fertiliser. 74.5% Slow Release- Ideal for any turf variety: 4kg(200m2)=$24, 10kg(500m2)=$42, 20kg bag(1000m2)=$72, 30kg bag(1500m2)=$105
Foliar Liquid Fertiliser- Enhances turf colour and aids in iron and manganese deficiencies 2L $33~400m2. 5L- $66 - 1 Litre FREE. (Use your own click on bottle).
Turf browning off in the summer months is more likely due to lack of water, or poor water retention in your soil, rather than black beetle or other insect activity. The first sign of water stress is the leaf will start to curl up, go a silver/grey colour then brown off. Firstly, make sure you are applying enough water to the area. Put out some catch cups, and time how long it takes to fill the cups to get a minimum of 10ml. Ensure all the sprinkler nozzles are free from any blockages and are covering the area evenly.
The easiest way to check if it is a water issue is to dig down approx 10cm deep and see what the soil is like a day or two after you have watered. If it is dry, then you will need to apply “good” wetting agent and water retainer to the area to make help your turf cope through the warmer months. The Turf Growers Association recommends applying AQUAFORCE and BIAGRA to help your turf and plants survive the summer months.
Premium Wetting Agent $25-200m2
Premium Water retainer-best used in conjunction with Aqua Force or on its own.
2L:$33 ~150m2, 5L:$65 ~500m2 or 5L CONCENTRATE-$100 ~2000m2
Combo pack with the Aqua Force- $50(2L) or $80(5L)
As a general rule, you shouldn’t need to top dress your lawn. You can apply a fine layer if you are finding that it is lumpy when you are mowing, or if you have renovated your lawn. This will encourage new growth. A lawn mix or yellow sand is best on top, making sure that you can still see a bit of leaf /plant structure coming through. If you apply it too thick, the turf may be smothered and start to rot underneath especially in winter.
Most weeds that can be sprayed out are generally classified into ‘broadleaf weeds’ or ‘grass weeds’. The most common broadleaf weeds can be easily sprayed out. When spraying on a soft leaf buffalo, you have to be aware of what chemicals are safe to use, without killing off your grass. Chemicals containing MCPA and Bromoxynil are safe to use on couch and buffalo. Avoid using Dicamba on the buffalo.
Wintergrass is the most common of the grass weed species that most people have trouble with. Using a pre-emergent during April to help stop them coming up in Winter. You can also spray when they start to appear.
Safe to use on Buffalo for broadleaf weeds $17.50-approx 400m2 Click on Hose also available- $15- 200m2
Pre-emergent for Wintergrass $22.50- approx 600m2
Even the healthiest lawn can attract a few pests. The most common 2 that can do a bit of damage on the surface is the Army worm and the Sod Web Worm. They eat the top of the leaf, and like any caterpillar will pupate into a moth, which you can see flying around. These can be easily sprayed out or left to run their course. The grass will recover pretty easily from this.
Complete Hose-on liquid insecticide $24-150m2
Unlike a couch that can be easily verti-mowed to remove any thatch build up, buffalos’ can be easily destroyed by a verti- mower unless done by a professional. The best piece of equipment to use is a rotary mower. If you lower the mower a notch at a time, and remove the cuttings, you can easily take your buffalo quite low to the surface. The best time to do this is in Spring, and then give a light topdress and a good feed, and let your buffalo re shoot. This is best done every year or every 2nd year to keep your buffalo firm and minimise thatch build up.